July, 2004


25
Jul 04

It almost feels like home

I’ve been in Manchester for about two weeks now. P and I moved into our place last week and have spent all this time cleaning it up. While the place is in a great location and is a nice place, it was seriously filthy. The people before us obviously smoked like trains as everything had a layer of sticky film on it. We had to throw away and replace pretty much everything that hadn’t been hiding in the cupboards. But now, the place is almost finished being spring-cleaned, and we’ve bought almost all the necessary housey things. The best thing about our flat, next to the floor-to-ceiling windows and the two balconies, is that we have access to a heated pool, jacuzzi, sauna, gym, and games room with ping pong, foosball, snooker, and pool. Ace! I’m addicted and I seriously stink of chlorine.

Living in the city centre is great. We’re only a few minutes walk from Piccadilly Gardens, which is a small park right in the main shopping district. It has a fountain, which is where the scally children play when it’s hot (i.e., when the temperature goes over 15ºC).

There are so many shops in downtown that I might have to start worrying when I get a job. There are also quite a few cafes, the best of which is sadly Starbucks, although none of them seem to be open past 7pm. The weirdest thing about downtown is that there are no real supermarkets. There is a small Tesco, but it is mostly overpriced, and, well, small. Today we caught a bus out to the ‘burbs to go grocery shopping in a proper supermarket. We got 50 items for £57. I can’t figure out if that’s good or bad anymore as I’m getting confused when it comes to converting back to another countries monitary system. Which country should I convert to anyway? New Zealand? America? Spain? Belgium? I don’t know.

So far, Manchester seems quite nice. I really love having two great friends here. It is great living across the road from Mischa and Lance. We go shopping together, cook for each other, go swimming together, and hang out and play games and watch movies. It’s like having awesome flatmates but not having to live with them, which is obviously the worst thing about flatmates. The strangest thing is that today I found out that Lance and I went to the same primary school, as well as intermediate and college. I must have spoken to him only a couple of times over those 13 years, but knew who he was. I also hadn’t seen him since 1996, so it’s funny that we now hang out and live across the street.

Sadly, as many open wireless networks as there are in this neighbourhood, I don’t really pick up any of them (except one that I can only get one bar of reception for, but it disappears completely a lot). P and I decided not to get internet until one of us gets a job, so we have to either sit in the square in our apartment building (but it rains almost every day, so that’s a bit difficult) or wait for Mischa and Lance to get home (or hang out in their hallway which is a bit scabby). So, not too much internet for me. However, I am quite happily filling my time watching television shows about British families buying property overseas and people buying second-hand junk to try and flog off at auction. I swear, there are at least 5 versions of each of those themes. The best thing though, is BBC. No adverts! Now, if only television licenses didn’t cost £1,000,000 a year…


17
Jul 04

Paris, Antwerp, Manchester

I arrived in Antwerp two Mondays ago, after three days in Paris. We had our hotel booked for the night we were supposed to have arrived, but not the night before, the night that dummies arrive. We ended up getting a really expensive room at this bizarre, not-that-good Comfort Inn in Montmarte. It was on the top floor and had a terracey thing on the roof. If I sat on the roof with my laptop, I managed to detect 2 wireless signals, both with no passwords. I was wireless for the first time since leaving Belgium.

Paris was rainy, dreary, and cold. It was a bit of shock after having been in the south of Europe for so long, enjoying brilliant weather and getting sunburned. The Parisians seemed to think it wasn’t too cold, while I had a sweatshirt, jacket and scarf on, and shivered into my hot, strong coffees taken standing at the counter because it was at least twice the price if you sat down on the terrace.

I saw the Eiffel Tower. I didn’t go up to the top, as the weather was making me grumpy and tired, and getting used to prices of food after Spain have left me constantly annoyed. However, I did eat yummy food and delicious croissants. We were going to see the Louvre on the Sunday, but the lines were stupid. Never go to museums on a Sunday in Paris, because everything is shut so there really isn’t anything else to do. We ended up going on the next morning, and it really wasn’t crowded at all, except around the Mona Lisa, which was stupidly ridiculous. However, the Louvre is the best museum I’ve ever been to. You could go there for a few days and not see everything. We saw Sacre Coeur which is really an amazingly beautiful church, even after seeing a bajillion churches throughout Europe. You weren’t allowed to take photos, but I am a ninja and managed to take one anyway.

Three days of Parisian fun and we were back in Antwerp. It almost felt like being home, which is strange considering I don’t even speak Dutch, bar the occasional alstublieft, dank u, and tot ziens. We stayed with P’s grandaunt for a few more days while he sorted his things out for Manchester. She really is a lovely person, as is P’s whole family. I really can’t wait to go back to Antwerp.

So now here I am in Manchester, sitting on the couch of some old friends from high school in New Zealand. P and I have found a great place which is right across the road from my friends’ place. We’re almost F·R·I·E·N·D·S, but not quite. It’s on the top floor and has two little balconies and a great bay window/dome thing. We move in on Monday. I also bought a great Sony Ericsson T610, so here are some crappy phone pics of our new place.

I can’t wait to move in! Now, time to get a J.O.B!


6
Jul 04

Tips for Travelling To Rome

Don’t go in summer. Rome gets seriously hot (it was 35C on the last day of June 2004). Although it’s not an entirely unbearable heat, it isn’t pleasant if you aren’t used to it. It’s not very humid, and there is a breeze which makes it quite nice in the shade. However, if you are going to go sightseeing, you won’t be able to stay in the shade all day.

Buy a good guidebook and map. If you don’t know a lot about the history of Rome, investing in a really good guidebook is worth it. Try to find a map with a scale, as Rome is much smaller than a lot of maps make it look.

Get a drink bottle. There are many drinking fountains around Rome that are constantly pouring water from 2000-year-old aquaducts. The water is crystal clear, ice cold, and tastes like bottled mineral water. Buying a small bottle of water from a stand can cost around €2.50, so it’s definitely worth it.

Buy a fan. Be it an old-fashioned fan or a little battery operated one, whichever you choose, you will thank yourself – especially when visiting the Sistine Chapel and the Colosseum. You may look like a twat fanning yourself with a €3 fan with scenes of Rome and lace around the edges, but you will also get the chance to make friends with old women who will constantly stand to the left of you in order to get the remnants of your handmade breeze.

Take guided tours. Finding a tour guide can help you skip the lines, and the information they tell you will make the sight more interesting. There is a good tour you can do for €16 (ticket €8/tour €8) that includes the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. There is an American tourguide called Brandon who will take you around the Forum for an hour. He is very interesting and knowledgeable. You can find the tourguides outside the Colosseum on arrival.

Don’t skip the catacombs. There are a few different catacombs around Rome that you can visit. At least two of them are in the southeast area of Rome, outside the old city wall. There is no Metro stop there, so you will need to catch a bus, taxi, or rent a scooter. The catacombs are closed on different days (mid-week), and are closed between midday and around 2:30pm. The San Sebastian catacomb has 160,000 graves in many miles of handcarved tunnels. The tours last about 30-60 minutes. It is absolutely freezing in the tunnels, and in some places you can see your breath in the air. Definitely a good place to go to escape the heat!

Hire a scooter for a day. Riding a scooter around Rome is the best way to see the parts of Rome you wouldn’t be able to see if you were catching the Metro. It is also a great way to travel when it is insanely hot (aside from the sweaty helmet head). But be warned! People in Rome can NOT drive (it is rumoured that Roman drivers obtain their licenses from inside cereal boxes), and most of the city streets are one way. It is very tricky to drive out of the city, but very easy to drive back in (you can come, but you can never leave!). Drive to the westbank of the river for dinner, and around the old city wall which is still intact in many parts.

There are so many things to see while in Rome, but many of them you can see all in one day. However, a lot of the sights are closed on certain days or for renovation, so find out before you leave!


4
Jul 04

Italy was great. Except Pisa.

This morning I woke up at 4:45am for the second day in a row in order to shower, eat breakfast, finish packing, and leave the house by 6am to get to the train station to catch a train to Paris. P and I lugged our bags down the hilly streets of Monte Carlo (all 4 of them), waited at the station for a few minutes, and then jumped on our train. Once the train was in motion and almost at the first stop, I pull out the tickets so I could fill in the date on my ticket (ahh, the honour system). I ask, “Hey P, what’s the date today?” The third, right?

Our tickets were for the fourth. !@#$

Normally, I would have had a huge spazout on the train, but P was cool, calm, and collected (as per usual, unlike me) and suggested we continue to Nice – where we were supposed to change trains and have a 20 minute wait – and try to change our tickets to go to Paris today. As luck would have it, although not normally, we were able to change our tickets (however, we don’t have a hotel reservation for tonight, so we’ll see what happens there).

This is by far the dumbest thing we’ve done so far, next to yesterday, when we were travelling from Pisa to Monaco and had to change trains in Genova. The train we were on stopped at more than one station in Genova, and we happened to get out at the wrong station. This wasn’t realised until we couldn’t find our next train listed on the departures board. So we ran to Information with many WTFs and OMGs, followed by a sweaty run to the platform to catch a train that was just about to leave for Piazza Principe. As luck would have it, although not normally (we had two days of stupidity and pure luck), we managed to catch our final train from Genova to Monaco. Disaster averted.

Yesterday was my last day in Italy, after having spent just over a week there. Venice was absolutely amazing, and is definitely the most beautiful city I’ve ever been to. It’s one of those places that you really can’t imagine what it feels like to be there until you actually get there. It seems so bizarre to be in a city with no roads, no cars, and nothing but sea water cutting you off from the rest of the world. It’s so incredible seeing all the buildings that are hundreds of years old, sitting so close to sea level, and noticing how their ground floors are slowly succumbing to the ocean. The main islands of Venice were completely filled with buildings hundreds of years ago, and there is no land available for new buildings. Because of this, and the fact that people are obviously reluctant to tear down the historic buildings, Venice seems not much different than it would have been in the century before last. I doubt there are very many places in the world where this would also be the case. It really is a one-of-a-kind city.

From Venice, we caught a train to Rome (photos). We visited the Colosseum, the Fountain, of Trevi, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican City museum, the Roman Forum, the Venezia Palace, the Pantheon, and the catacombs. We did most of those in the first day we were there.

The Colosseum is as one would expect – rather large. Like most of the sights of Rome, you don’t get to see the best parts, as I really wanted to walk through the underground tunnels. It’s quite sad seeing how much of a ruin it is, and hearing how a lot of it was destroyed in an earthquake in around the 1500’s, and reading about how the bricks and marble were taken and used for other buildings, leaving the Colosseum as just a shell.

The Roman Forum was one of the most interesting things we saw, mostly because we did a tour of it with this really great guide. The Roman Forum is where the old markets used to be, and near it are the ruins of a massive palace built by a crazy lead-poisoned Roman. As you walk around the hill it was built on, you step over 2,000-year-old slabs of marble flooring, columns, and concrete walls that were also once covered in marble.

The Fountain of Trevi is really quite amazing. It is an incredibly large fountain built against the side of a building in about the 1700’s. The water that flows through it comes from a 2,000-year-old aquaduct that is still in use today. The water comes from miles away in the mountains, and is ice cold and perfectly drinkable. There are also many drinking fountains that are constantly running, which feed from the same aquaduct. The water tastes just as good as bottled mineral water.

The Sistine Chapel is part of the Vatican City museum, and was absolutely packed full of tourists. It was hot and stuffy, but worth seeing. Vatican City is smallest country in the world, but really it’s just a part of Rome. I didn’t see the Pope, but I did see a sign for “papal blessings” and an arrow pointing into a souvenir store.

The Pantheon was closed for renovations but we sat outside to look at it and sneaked a peek through the massive doors. It is just huge. It’s hard to believe it’s still standing, since it was completed in the first part of the 2nd century. It’s even harder to believe it when you’re touching the marble columns or the huge bronze door.

The Venezia Palace is a huge monument that was only finished in around 1910, but looks much older. It is all white marble, and very large. Apparently, most people who live in Rome hate the sight of it. At the top level, it has a very nice view of Rome, between the massive marble columns and underneath the beautiful frescos in the open air viewing area. The strange thing is that it is the most guarded sight in Rome, but it isn’t an ancient treasure like the other sights of Rome. There are policemen constantly on guard, and two military men standing at attention on either side of one part of the monument – the monument to unknown soliders. You aren’t allowed to sit on the steps, take baby carriages up the stairs, make obscene gestures, be “badly” behaved, and numerous other things. The guards were constantly blowing their whistles at people to tell them off.

The catacombs were a sight to be seen. They are quite a few metres underground, and in the burning heat of the day it was so cold down there that you could see your breath, and the marble slabs that were still intact were wet. They stretch for miles and miles and cover 600 acres of land underneath the outskirts of Rome. Christians that were persecuted were buried there and sought refuge in their underground graveyards during those times. It’s very sombering walking through these small tunnels and seeing the graves, and sitting down in an underground church where St. Sebastian was buried.

Aside from the ancient (and not so ancient) sights of Rome, Rome isn’t that nice a city. It’s very dirty and smelly, and full of homeless people and beggars. People can’t drive at all, and the roads are packed with cars. This was most apparent when P and I hired a Vespa for a day. It was a good idea though, because it was really the best way to get to the catacombs (you can’t get there by Metro).

We left Rome a few days later and headed north to Pisa (photos). We planned to stay there for just one night, which was a good thing because Pisa is possibly the most boring city in the entire universe. The Leaning Tower of Pisa costs €15 to climb up, which is a lot considering it is only 7-stories high. P and I decided not to go up it, so going to Pisa was really a waste of time. It also didn’t help that the hotel we stayed in was filthy yet expensive. I wouldn’t recommend going to Pisa, but I guess, at least I can say “been there, done that.”

We spent the afternoon of the day we arrived back in Monaco at the beach. The beach in Monte Carlo is really beautiful. The water is pretty clear and warm, and it’s been built like a mini-harbor, so the sides along the walkways are waveless and perfect for swimming. There are schools of fish that swim around the beach, and the bigger fish swim all the way up to the shore. P and I had goggles and tried to catch them, but they were too fast. It really is one of the nicest beaches I’ve been to, and being in Monaco where every is rich and there are no poor or homeless people, you can leave you bags on the shore and not worry about them being stolen. The only beach I’ve been to that was nicer than that were the beaches of La Phare Amadee – a tiny island off the coast of New Caledonia – which had white sand, crystal clear water, and brightly coloured tropical fish that would swim up to you when you were only in the water up to your knees.

So, now I’m off to Paris for two days. I can’t wait to go to the Louvre, and to try and use some of my French that after 7 years of non-use has become absolutely pathetic. (Je ne comprend pas! Je ne parle pas le Francais! Ma Francais est tres tres mal! Zut alors!) Here’s hoping I don’t do too badly.